What I’m Reading: In Defense of Food
I finished reading In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto by Michael Pollan a few days ago. All in all, it was a well-written, easy to follow and comprehend book.
The Message
Pollan’s message is simple and is printed right on the front cover: “Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much.” Those seven words completely sum up what is written on the next 201 pages. You could actually stop there if you understand what he means with those words. There is little else other than expounding on that message in the rest of the book. Ninety-nine percent of it is stuff that I’ve either read before or already deduced on my own.
Before I was done with the Introduction, I was already thinking, “I’ve been saying that for awhile now.” Things like:
“If it has a health claim, it’s probably not good for you”
“Avoid foods with nutrition labels.”
Pollan summarizes the differences between food and food products and, harkening back to the first two words in his credo, tells us to eat food.
Real Food
Food is easy to find; it’s the real stuff in the produce aisle. Food products are easy to recognize too; they are in boxes with ingredients lists a half-mile long. “If you’re great-great-grandmother would recognize it as food, eat it” is a good message to take from this book.
Pollan did a good job of dissecting the reductionist science of nutritionism, a double-edged sword that has both benefits and drawbacks. Of course, the drawbacks are that when a new vitamin or compound, such as omega-3 fatty acids, is discovered, food manufacturers re-engineer their food products to boast the new claim on the label. We’ve all seen the claims: “Now with Omega-3s,” “Heart Healthy,” and “A Good Source of Whole Grains!”
But the other side of nutritionism, a side that I see as beneficial, is that we do understand the compounds in our foods that are helpful. For instance, we are starting to understand the role of omega-3s in health and we know that they come, largely, from fish. The benefit comes in eating more fish to introduce more omega-3s, not from food manufacturers sticking omega-3s in their margarine.
Nutritionism can help us understand which foods are important components of the diet. If nutritionism would take aim at some sacred cows (cough *grains* cough), we’d see that the foods we really should be including in our eating plans are those that our Paleolithic ancestors would recognize as food.
How Animals are Raised
He did talk a bit about whether conventionally-raised animals should be considered food or food products. Depending on one’s definition of the word, a steak from a CAFO-fattened cow is certainly “in it’s natural state” and it’s most certainly recognizable by our ancestors.
Unfortunately, a cow fed grains, antibiotics, growth hormones, and industrial wastes is most certainly not natural. My thoughts are that a conventionally-raised steak is an altered food, though not so alien to the body as an Oreo cookie. It’s a tough distinction because most of our meat does come from an industrialized process of producing it rather than from a holistic, environmentally-sound process.
I would’ve liked if he would’ve spent more time talking about where to find properly-raised meats. In the end, his reasoning for “Mostly plants” boils down to the common studies showing vegetarians to be healthier than meat-eaters. But he never broke it down to discuss the whys or to look at confounding factors such as an overall more healthful lifestyle.
It seems as if Pollan took it at face-value that vegetarians and near-vegetarians would be better off than the more carnivorous amongst us due to higher plant consumption, a notion which has never been proven when compared to a meat-eating, but non-Western-style diet (i.e., Paleo, Primal, Protein Power, etc). I think a good service to his readers would’ve been to help them understand that not all meat needs to be avoided and that animals raised in an environment that they are evolved for, such as on a pasture, are quite healthful (and higher in essential vitamins and minerals)
Wrap-Up
In the end, I give it a 7/10. It might be a better book than I’m giving it credit for, but my bias is that there was nothing new in the book for me. For the average eater, this book would be a good introduction to proper nutrition (i.e., just eat real food and you’re pretty much there), but for those of us that have already devoted the time to reading books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Food Politics, Good Calories, Bad Calories, and The End of Food, it offers little of value other than reading a well-written nutrition tome. It borders a bit much on promoting vegetarianism, which those of us here know isn’t really all it’s cracked up to be, though it is better than what most people are eating.
About Scott
Scott Kustes loves to cook and loves to eat. He started Real Food University to help you get maximum enjoyment out of the meals that you eat. To find out more about how he has rebelled against the fast food culture and counting calories or carbs, join the Real Food Revolution.
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I only skimmed your review because I plan to write one of my own – I don’t want to be unduly influenced, or subconsciously take ideas from you. But I just wanted to throw something out – he does admit that “Mostly plants” actually means “Mostly leaves,” because most seeds are high in omega-6, which we don’t want. What I wish he’d taken on was this question, If I’m supposed to limit animal products, and I’m supposed to limit seeds, and my stomach is only so big, how am I supposed to get enough calories? Leaves are not gonna cut it.
I’m preaching to the choir here, but the “vegetables aren’t filling” complaint always irritates the heck out of me.
Leaves are more than just lettuce. Kale, collards, chard, and their cousins cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, etc. are all hearty and filling. Problem is folks don’t eat enough of them–in a sitting, I mean. They’re used to vegetables being served in such forms as a crappy iceberg lettuce salad (iceberg lettuce should be illegal) or three measly asparagus spears at a restaurant. Veggies don’t have so much in the way of calorie density, so you have to (get to!) eat LOTS of them to fill you up.
3-5 oz. of free-range, hormone-free, ethically raised meat or a few eggs and a giant bowl of veggies can be plenty filling. Like, a whole head of broccoli and/or greens and/or brussels sprouts, for example. Steam ‘em up or cook ‘em in a pan with lots of garlic (my favorite) and there you go. I’m happy to ditch the bread and pasta and potatoes ’cause it means I get to (have to!) eat MORE–more veg. Mmmm!
Whew, that feels better. Thanks for your patience. Is it dinner time yet?
(I’ve been lurking around here and MDA and other such blogs–including yours, Migraineur–for a while now…great stuff, from both the writers and the commentators.)
Brassica,
I couldn’t agree more! Last nights dinner was a whole head of colliflower for just the 2 of us. Made it just like garlic mashed potatoes but with colliflower instead. With about 6-7 ounces of chicken. We were very full.
Marc
Migraineur, that’s a good point, one that circles back to meat and fat as a prime caloric source. But it’s not PC to say that.
Brassica, you got it. There are so many good vegetables out there and all of them are massively filling, at least in terms of caloric intake. If one is trying to get all of their carbs from non-starchy vegetables, it’s a ridiculous quantity of vegetables to eat and I don’t really see how anyone can still be hungry after eating a head or two of broccoli or a salad with a head of lettuce, a carrot, a handful of radishes, some celery, a cucumber, and olives. I think you nailed it with “They’re used to vegetables being served in such forms as a crappy iceberg lettuce salad (iceberg lettuce should be illegal) or three measly asparagus spears at a restaurant.”
Cheers
Scott
I am skeptical about the vegetarians-are-healthier than-omnivores-meme. I think it sounds ‘good’ — after all, our mothers encouraged us to eat our veggies. After all, ‘everyone knows’ that ‘veggies are good for us’. Simply put it seems to me a sacred cow.
Don’t get me wrong, I personally luv me some fruits and veggies — but I am no longer convinced that they are unfailingly always ‘healthy’ for us.
There just might be an evolutionary reason why children have to to be coaxed, cajoled and threatened into eating their veggies — perhaps b/c of the high ‘*natural’ toxin levels of an organism not wanting its fruit to be eaten just yet? Anyone ever eat a green (unripe) apple? I have and it tore me up something awful.
It has been said that commonly eaten members of the nightshade family, such as eggplant and tomatoes might have a deleterious effect on human health — whether this is do, I don’t know. But it certainly bears investigating this, in my opinion, sacred cow.
*BTW I hate the word ‘natural’ b/c it really means absolutely nothing. ‘Natural’ does not mean ‘good’, although we like to think it does. Marketers luv to play on that habit of ourselves. 100% ‘natural’! etc etc
Fugu is 100% natural, but will kill you. It is certainly not ‘natural’ to take antibiotics and brush our teeth etc etc — but I think we can agree these our better options than many ‘natural’ ones.
Brassica – thanks for stopping by my blog. I am absolutely with you on low-carb meaning you get to eat more veggies. Last night my husband and I had green beans dressed with homemade yogurt and spices and mahi mahi. The mahi mahi was just OK, but at the end of the meal we both looked at each other and said, “Are there any more beans?” And when I go to restaurants and substitute an additional veggie for the potatoes, I feel sorry for the people who have the bland boring mushy white potatoes when I get to have beautiful crisp broccoli and beautiful crisp asparagus.
Varangy, I think your point about vegetables and children’s aversion is spot on. I have also known more than one pregnant woman who absolutely could not look at broccoli during her first trimester without retching. I don’t have time to look up a reference to this, but it seems to me that I’ve read that this is an inherited characteristic that protects the fetus from chemicals in broccoli that are not harmful to adults but can be deadly at certain points during fetal development. And it seems to me I also read, maybe in Nourishing Traditions, that in some parts of the world children develop mouth rashes at the end of summer when tomatoes are especially plentiful.
I think I disagree slightly with everybody on the issue of fullness, though. I don’t disagree that a whole head of cauliflower would be “filling.” But I don’t think it would provide satiety, and I think satiety is more important than physical fullness for long-term appetite control. I might be stuffed if I ate a giant mountain of cauliflower, but I’d be hungry again two hours later. On the other hand, two chicken livers will hold me for 5 or 6 hours.
@Migraineur
I have read about the pregnany women food aversion theory as well — I want to say, U of W researcher evolutionary psychologist Margie Profet is its originator — but I could be wrong.
If I remember correctly, the theory is that the women’s most intense food aversions roughly corresponds to the first trimester — when the fetus is developing his or her nervous system and therefore thought to be most sensitive to any potential toxins in his or her mother’s food sources.
Since I have no aversion to butter, olive oil, real home-made mayonnaise, etc., I make many of my veggie dishes filling by slathering said fats thereon. Today I had a big Nicoise salad with Ahi tuna and a great natural mustard vinaigrette – so great that I had to ask for more of the dressing. Ceratinly no reason to skimp. When you seek healthier fat calories, I think there’s no better place to put them than on a salad or steamed veggies.
People who ask me “what about my lingering carb cravings when I start your Primal way of eating?”, I say “wait until you find out you can replace that carb craving with a fat craving and have it be GOOD for you.”
@Migraineur
Great point. I agree with you on the fullness versus satiety issue. You have framed it very, very well.
I, sadly, love carb-rich foods such as pasta and bread. I could eat 10 kilos of tasty pasta at any one sitting, and I would walk away stuffed but not sated. Were there more room in my stomach, I would eat more.
Whereas if I consume something with high fat, low cards and moderate to high protein, I am never, ever stuffed but am sated. That is, I cannot finish a large steak topped with butter b/c I am simply satisfied. I do not desire it any longer. Not the same with the aforementioned pasta, were I not physically stuffed to the gills from the pasta.
Psychologically I still want to eat my pasta.
Satiety versus fullness. Big difference.
Migraineur, good point on satiety vs. fullness. Though I’m like Mr. Sisson there…I slather everything in fat. I go through olive oil like it’s water. Which is probably why I find vegetables so satiating. Also, when I eat something like a sweet potato or squash, they are also loaded up with fat, either lots of coconut cream/oil or a huge pour of olive oil. I’m sure if I just ate the head of broccoli, it wouldn’t be nearly as satisfying.
Mark, Thanks for stopping in. I tend to stick mainly with olive and coconut oils and coconut cream for my fat, but I’m like you…everything is well-coated. People just look at me wide-eyed while I pour olive oil all over my meat and vegetables or salad. I think the carb cravings largely go away over time, especially once one gets over the fear of fat.
Varangy and Migraineur, interesting stuff on the food aversion during pregnancy. I hadn’t heard anything about that…probably because I’ve never been a pregnant woman.
Cheers
Scott
I was going to chime in on the satiety bit. I eat a huge salad (serving bowl size with lots of ExtraV and Balsamic) w/o protein. An hour later I have no problem eating a full dinner, heavy on meat and more veggies (usually covered in butter).
I’ve also have the same problem as Varangy with regard to pasta. Granted I’m better about it now. I only eat Dreamfields (still not convinced on their carb count, but seems to work) and try to only cook enough for the people eating. If my fiancee wants extra for leftovers, I make her cook it later. There’s no way I will not eat it. I also cover it in lots of fat and protein. All homemade, vodka sauce with lots sausage, grass fed beef meat sauce, alfredo with grilled chicken or shrimp and if I’m still hungry I eat more sauce by itself. Take just the leftover sauce for lunch a lot also, no pasta. Of course, I grew up in an Italian area with the sweetest little old lady who cooked a pot of sauce for the neighborhood kids every frickin’ day. Man that was good…:(
just watched Fast Food Nation, it’s impactful to say the least… earlier today i passed up a sausage mcmuffin because of it. Evidently it is worth passing up fast food for more than health reasons.
What a great blog. I just found it today and look forward to reading more.
[...] know, I think all of us low-carb / Paleo / slow food / traditional nutrition / WAPF types have been a little hard on Michael Pollan. I have a few bones to pick with In Defense of Food, namely an inherent [...]
Eat more vegetables…slathered in butter or fried in lard. Now that’s filling *and* satiating. With a side of protein, of course, and some lacto-fermented veggies for digestive support.
My personal favorite fat is homemade ghee combined with equal parts coconut oil, kept in a jar on the counter. Keeps well (I do stick it in the fridge on hot days), tastes like heaven, has a relatively high smoke point, goes with everything. Great for people who want to eat more coconut oil but don’t want everything to taste coconutty.